Bright star

27 februari 2014 - Austin, Texas, Verenigde Staten

Dear future me,

And Wham, it was! Texas hit me hard in the face for believing all those people who say this state is boring. First it gave a spectacular (ghostly) light show at Marfa`s to welcome me into its midst. Then it lured me to this far-and-away place hidden in the south, where the Rio Grande makes a big bend. This secret national park is so far from civilization, that you think you traveled into another world. Literally. By the time I was finally in the park (100 miles from my motel) I waved my passport around at the border control. It turned out to be an ordinary American Ranger who just wanted to see my annual national parks pass. For my part, it could have been the fairy godmother who let me enter wonderland. At first, I didn`t really notice as riding on the dirt made enough dust to create my own mysteryland. But as the clouds were disappearing, a rainbow of colors came out. I think Putin definitely would have banned this place as it was obvious too gay. No Ugandans tourist where there to be found either. It was just me and a few other happy campers, who actually came from Texas and could provide me with some other interesting places to visit. While marveling at the grandness of the Rio Grande, Goat mountain and Mules Ears, I lost track of time and had to rush out of the park to get back to Alpine. I left everybody behind, because they had heaters and lots of alcohol to get them through the cold nights on the campsite. So only one tiny light was to be seen going out of the park. All the animals in the surrounding area came out to see this strange moving light bulb and they probably thought a new Marfa ghost light was born. But no, it was just me. Trying not to hit the deer, rabbits, javelinas (pigs, but don`t tell them) and skunks. Many people warned me before: don`t drive at night in Texas. Well yeah, this Nennie managed to drive in the dark every single night. No casualties on my account though. Too bad all the other drivers don`t know how to avoid these animals, as I was driving through a cemetery all over Texas.

I didn`t really need to ride around at night to see the one big star all over the place. Texas is very proud of its spirit which eternally seeks for independence. It all comes together in their logo: the lone star. I`ve seen it everywhere as a symbol and I met many proud Texans on my way. Not particularly hard when you go to one of the most famous motor routes in the state in the weekend. I met herds of bikers roaming the street to see their three twisted sisters in the hill country. This 100 miles of hilly, curvy and therefore twisted road is pleasantly facilitated by many hot spots for motorcyclists. Parking my 'sort of'dirt bike between all the Harleys, made people interested in my story. Especially when you tell them you gonna do this ride late in the afternoon, while everybody else is already enjoying their beers. Well, two hours later I was enjoying my beer, just before it got dark and I had another 70 miles of meeting my deer friends ahead of me. The next day I ventured on my own over the many ranch and farm-to-market roads and let the sun guide me to the big town Austin. And again, I felt I was entering a wonderland of its own: student city. Staying in the midst of the University neighborhood in a hostel full of young, partying kids, I felt a bit out of place. Completely lost, is maybe a better way to put it. It took some time before I got used to the life in a city again and the fact that they try to keep the place weird, made it even harder for me. But within a day, I felt right at home. Inhaling some of the history of the state (big plus: they are proud folk who can conquer any seemingly large obstacle, big minus: they wiped the whole Indian race out). Absorbing the beautiful nature along the Colorado and tasting the great music vibes at South Congress (in the lovely company of Lobat, a colorful and strong woman). It all got me back on my saddle again. Ready to go to my final destination in the lone star state: Houston.

There are two ways to get to Houston (or three, if you count coming out of space): the short one and the long one. Knowing that I had to avoid the heavy traffic in this metropolis, I choose the detour. Nennie logic. It took me right through the Bastrop State Park, a once beautiful forest but completely destroyed by a fire. I didn`t know, so I was a bit down by the fact that father Winter had such a firm grip on the trees in this area. But when I entered Buescher State Park, right next door, I started to have my doubts about the winter theory. They were the last trees I would see for a while, because Texas has a lot of agriculture and being a very flat country, it reminded me of home sweet home. I was therefore glad to enter somebody else's home, to find some comfort. Kevin, who I met in Alaska, lured me to his house in the south with his charming hospitality. Not only pampered he me in the next few days, but he drove me all the way back to San Antonio so I could see it. To give an idea: that`s visiting Paris for a day, leaving from Rotterdam. His wife matched him in kindness and had a trick of her own to wow me: perfect dinners and great stories. I got a taste of the true Texan generosity, or should I say.....Canadian. Ha, they are everywhere! Kevin, born and raised up north, gave his worldly view on everything that is American and even in watching the Olympics he couldn`t disguise his roots. In between watching the games on television, I had some time off to see the area. Kevin took me out to the Gulf of Mexico (yahoo....I got to meet the ocean again)  and I explored the space voyages of the Americans. I will sign up soon for my next trip: 2040, riding to Mars on a Orion Multipurpose Crew Vehicle 650. In the here and now though, I had to say goodbye to my great hosts and all of their neighbors to leave Texas in a hurry. No, not because the Texas Rangers were chasing me, but because Fat Tuesday is coming up.

From one flat place to another flat place, but add some more water and you get a new name: Louisiana. And yes, throw some French speaking people in too! I couldn`t help thinking to myself that I got to the weirdest place (sorry, Austin). Suddenly all the Hispanic people are replaced by Creoles and Cajun people, who talk different and look different. Sorry to say, but the average weight instantly doubled when I crossed the border line and a lot of people look homeless. In fact, they are not and without any exception, all smile at me and start small talk. I got confused as all my left brain cells tried to impose the stereotype images, while my right brain cells wanted to embrace these people. In this bewildered state I got myself through the southern part of Louisiana to make my way to New Orleans. There I found myself another great host to offer me a room to sleep in: his office. And I also found that the right side of my brain tells the truth: these people here in southern Louisiana are remarkable. No wonder that they have what it takes to throw a good party! Mardi Gras, here I come.....or not really, as this Nennie hates crowds. And jazz.... I`ll run before it really starts, but at least I get to see some of the parades and drink wine on verandas.

Foto’s